Bittersweet |
The cake is constructed with layers of chocolate meringue and chocolate mousse, on top of which is a gooey layer of chocolate ganache. The conceptual play of two contrasting textural ingredients – light and crumbly meringue against the smooth mousse – is a good one; theoretically, the richness and the heaviness of the chocolate mousse should be lightened by the airiness of the meringue, which is, I assume, in order to preserve its cacao purity, fortified with cocoa powder but without nuts as would have been in a dacquoise.* However, the expected concentration of chocolate flavor was sadly and strangely missing; in its stead, my palate was coated with a dense sweetness. While the Portuguese national preference, or fervor, for sugar is duly noted, and it is not an ideology that I particularly abhor in essence because some things simply need to be saccharinely sweet – i.e. flan, marzipan, yokan (Japanese red bean paste jelly), I draw a line when the sugar obscures other ingredients. If my slice of “bittersweet” was so sweet, I wonder what the “traditional” would have been.
Lastly, there is also a chocolate mate tea on offer – an elixir of two powerful anti-oxidants; as far as medicine goes, this one does not taste too bad.
The Best Chocolate Cake in the World
Address: 55 Spring Street, New York, NY 10012
Phone: (212) 343-2253
We know we shouldn't trust someone who says s/he is the best (in the world), but we are always allured. Why are we so stupid?
ReplyDeleteAnyway, the combination of chocolate meringue and mousse is creative. If I were G.W.F. Hegel, it would be the Dialektische Aufhebung (Aufheben in English) moment!! I didn't know Portuguese read German philosophy...